Trivia - vintage textiles, linen & lace tablecloths, runners & napkins
The custom of using table linen was almost universal throughout France and Italy by the 12th century.
Napkins have been around since the Middle Ages when stylish folk stopped wiping their mouths on the tablecloth and started providing individual linen squares for themselves and their sloppier guests. Napkins as they are known today traditionally originated in the city of Rheims, noted for its fine cloth. The city presented King Charles VII with a set of table napkins at his coronation in 1422.
Just prior to the French Revolution, the standard size of table napkins was 45 by 35 inches, and the standard fabric white damask. Napkins and table cloths became a common sight in the 18th century. Later by the end of 18th century the use of table linen elevated to a greater standard and the idea of matching table linens established.
The use of the table cloth / tablecloth spread quickly from the aristocracy to the merchant classes and by the 15th century the use even spread in the smaller sections. Fifteenth-century trousseaux included long, narrow runners, often identical in length and decoration to the tablecloth, which were laid over the cloth to protect it.
Earlier table linens were made of linen and then the use of cotton and silk also became popular. When cold collations (of sweetmeats and fresh and candied fruits) were served in 14th and 15th century France, serviettes de collation ('refreshment towels') were hung in the room.
Several types with innovative styles came into the market. Small flower patterns came in the early 15th century. Venetian style and Damascus weave came into existence during Renaissance.
Until 1625, tablecloths were folded to get a more thick covering on the table. Later an undercloth was created to make a base layer for the cloth. During most of the late 1800's, Queen Victoria, who had lost her beloved Prince Albert, made it fashionable to be a widow. With this the custom of using darker shades came on and the table linen of that time were also dark heavy tapestries, fringed Turkey Red and white damask cloths, and heavily decorated plush and velvet table toppers.
http://www.table-kitchen-linen.com/history-table-linen.html
The old needle-made laces are labor intensive, and are rarely made today. Lacis should not be confused with the filet lace interpretations copied by bobbins, crochet, and embroidery on fabric. Filet is an ancient lace technique, sometimes referred to as nun's work because it was known to be made in convents.
Lace history and lace identification books show wonderful examples of Lacis
from as early as the 14th C. One of the earliest references to this work is
a cushion of network that St. Paul's Cathedral possessed in 1295, and three
pieces of the same work were in use in Exeter Cathedral in 1327.
"Filet" is the French word for a net, and "Lacis" for network - meaning in this case that the net has been ornamented with a design darned or applied upon its surface. The ground consisted of a delicate network made by hand, using the same technique as was used for making coarser fish and garden nets. On this ground the pattern was worked, usually by darning; the "point de toile" and the "point de reprise" being the stitches most generally employed.
http://lace.lacefairy.com/ID/FiletID.html
